Fashion in 20th Century

Lecture notes from September 5, 2007

20th Century is complicated in many terms, also within fashion. Two wars and several movements have left footprints into fashion. The rise and exploration of photography, film industry, and body shape - the winds of change.

The dominance of France in fashion world reduced. Although, Paul Poiret, the French fashion designer was one of the dominating figures in fashion world in 20th century. Poiret, who had his own fashion house in Paris, designed clothes for new type of woman, he was also the first designer who launched both, his own fashion- and perfume brand. Dark colors and stressing the line under the breast dominated. We have examples from 1911 when the skirts and dresses were so tight that it was only possible to move on tiptoes.

In 1892 Vogue was born. In 1916 the first British edition was launched. It was and still is the fashion and photo-magazine of luxury production. Fashion in these days was equal with style, attention on details not so much constructing the image of wealth or class. Though I personally doubt on this claim - high fashion and stylish outlooks has always been somewhat in relation to class and wealth. Even if we do not want to admit that.

Anyhow, in the 20th century, UK and US started to influence the world of fashion. Fashion industry was born. Putting that information into Swedish context, the department store NK was established in 1915. Some other department stores opened in Stockholm. Greta Garbo (Greta Gustavsson) who became famous as an actress, was the mannequin for NK. She is the style-example of fashion industry, femininity and icon of the 20th century. Who ever was now allowed to dream about becoming a star, because Garbo originated from quite an ordinary family. She was the first Swedish movie star and fashion icon who became famous worldwide.

Although the First WW didn't touch Sweden remarkably, the clothing here also changed more simple, functional and wearable. This is how dark colors can be explained - they are good in practical matters. The skirts became shorter, stratified clothing showed its face. The silhouette seemed more natural. After the I WW the issues of freedom and relaxation turned out to be revolutionary for women. Naked legs and arms were shown off as they had never been shown before. The prototype of a woman in the same time became more masculine, which also meant that women started to smoke, dance and play harder, they were occasionally represented similarly to men. It was the beginning of androgynus type of an individual.

1920's
- the eye-make was used in fashion photography. The general exposure of make-up industry. The time when celebrity actresses, singers and other social women influenced the 'ordinary woman'
- women became even more smaller and thinner.
- short blonde hair, masculine look, ultra slim body
- jazz music influence on fashion
- sub-cultures and special clubs for homosexuals
- expressive forms of art; cubism, futurism, syrrealism, constructivism
- New Age High Class; social status - modern free women
- women comparing themselves with men
- women driving cars, horses and doing sport

And of course, the classic of classics, Coco Chanel - "Less is more"- ideal. Simple androgynous silhouettes, little black dress (LBD). Chanel as first model for her own designs.

1930's
- functional style; practical hygiene conscious modern people
- long thin legs, flat breast, tanned skin (the "favor" of Chanel as well, she brought it into fashion) PS! This is where tanned look has gained its representation as the sign of high status and wealth - the tanned look connoted the money and after-holiday-life
- in 1936 women's haunting-fashion came up, women actually started haunting together with men
- an alternative to get fashionable clothes was to sew them on your own

1940's
- slim waist, large shoulders, A-cut

1950's
- plyester, acrylic were used for fashion, the price of these materials went down, it was possible to produce bigger collections
- washing of clothes thanks to new materials - previous times in history it hadn't been possible
- the birth of Ready-to-Wear (pret-a-porter)
- 1947 Dior's New Look (!)