Lecture notes from October 3, 2007
The lecture was an introduction to the international debate and history of research of fashion, design and consuming habits through times. It handled the topic from perspective of the history of economics. Klas Nyberg is lecturer in Uppsala University.
In this context the time between 1500-1800 a.d. is taken a "modernization time" when the industrial revolution formed its face. The times after the 1800 a.d. is hereby contexualized as the modern+postmodern time. Briefly about the lecture:
- shift and building-up
- agenda-setting of consumption as a driving force
- European/Scandinavian/Swedish/Stockholm's perspective
- consuming revolutions in the 19th century
To contextualize this topic we have to take into account the socio-historic and socio-economic background of the place we are standing out from. For example, while the industrial revolution in England took place in the end of the 17th Century, then in Sweden it happened after 1870's. In the same time France had been a 'Great Country' in the 17th and 18th century - there was about 75 million inhabitants, while in England this number was 5 million.
Consumption as driving force
Industrial revolution that we here are talking about took place after the year 1750 and can be divided into three sections that embrace production, distribution and consumption. It began in England and meant changes in town-theories from the economic perspective; the rise of fabric-system, the industrial revolution spreading out from England. So we might want to ask why did the industrial revolution in the first place happened, andy why in England?
England has a long tradition of industrial towns. In Sweden such town is Norrköping, in Finland maybe Tampere.
The concept of production includes three main aspects: 1) Marxism and his followers; 2) market-capitalisms industrial system; 3) their rise in Europe because of the innovations within technique, the institutional backgrounds, the religious ethic and presence of capital.
The concept of distribution includes following aspects: big-buyers, buying system, hierarchies and networks, communications and infrastructure, import and export within the location.
The concept of consumption. In the 17th Century there became the signs of status-dressing; one could evaluate another person based on its clothes (one knew when someone is a king or a guard). Consumption in the 18th Century embraced already the concept of fashion. Fashion was always a preference, a choice made by the possibilities of income and price of a cloth. This time can be described as the time when prices went down and income raised, advertising, fashion and marketing appeared. The formation of this kind of consumer society in Europe is questioned whether it was an industrial revolution or a consumption-revolution?
French lived in its best - they were famous for the art, silk and high-society.
In Scandinavia times were not like that. It was a little people living here, there was just a small number of towns and they were small as well, the climate was difficult. Still, we have some good examples of the luxurious style of life - e.g the paintings of Alexander Roslin. So the handicraft and art and manufactures were present and the business was happening.
Brief history of Swedish consumer society
- Tessin, Hårleman & Jean Erik Rehn
- the castle, the Tessin palace, Skeppsbron
- textile, sugar and tobacco export
- 1739-1846 laws of manufacturing
- 1739-1846 about 3600 texile-workers immigrate here
Clothing manufactures appear in the end of the 18th century, fabrics become more skilled in producing and dying textiles. The courage to sell and market progress first in Norrköping.
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